CLASSIFYING THE QUALITY OF MARBLING
THE CLASSIFICATION OF WAGYU
Anyone tasting Wagyu beef for the first time will likely find it outstanding, regardless of its origin, as we've seen how its marbling characteristics make it highly flavorful and tender. However, Wagyu beef is not all the same, and the differences lie in the type of animal, breeding techniques, and the area where the animals are born and raised. First and foremost, there's a crucial distinction to be made between Japanese Wagyu and foreign Wagyu.
The former comes from animals born, raised, and slaughtered precisely in the country that gives it its name, while the latter results from the exportation of Wagyu animals from Japan in past years. Thus, these are animals born, grown, and slaughtered in another country, where there are different soil, climate, and breeding techniques. For several years, it has no longer been possible to export live animals, so it is also not possible to find a Japanese Wagyu cow exported and raised abroad.
This overview highlights the importance of origin in the quality and authenticity of Wagyu beef, underlining that the unique conditions in Japan contribute significantly to the characteristics that make Wagyu beef so sought after.
Even within the "Wagyu made in Japan" category, however, there are differences that denote various final characteristics of the meat, which we can express in terms of PDO (Protected Designation of Origin), origin, or sub-zone. The most significant factor is undoubtedly the geographical origin, due to climate and temperatures where the animals grow; the second is the breeding methodology (and thus also the feeds used), which can range from strictly traditional to those using cutting-edge technologies. Then, there are niche methodologies, where there is a significant search to achieve meat with a well-defined taste, to those of Kagoshima, where the focus is more on quantity than quality, although all remain excellent products.
This explanation underscores the complexity and variety within Japanese Wagyu itself, influenced by regional conditions and farming practices that contribute to the distinct tastes and qualities of the beef. Each region or method brings something unique to the Wagyu experience, from meticulous traditional care to innovative approaches aimed at enhancing certain flavors or characteristics.
These differences lead to various characteristics of the meat, and in order to determine the value of one meat compared to another, the Japan Meat Grading Association has established a classification system. This system is based on the yield of the carcass, which is about how much high-quality meat is present in the carcass, ranging from grade A, the highest, to grade C, the lowest. It also considers quality in terms of the color and brightness of the meat, the firmness and texture of the meat, and the color, luster, and quality of the fat, which ranges from 1 to 5 (from the lowest level, poor, to the highest, excellent). This grading system is crucial for assessing the quality and value of Wagyu beef, providing a standardized way to differentiate between the wide range of Wagyu meat based on specific, measurable qualities.
THE YIELD OF THE A - B - C GRADES
The animal's yield, meaning what remains after subtracting the percentage of waste (excess fat, tendons, etc.), follows this criterion:
A = Above standard (72% or more of usable meat)
B = Within the standard (from 69% to 72%)
C = Below standard (below 69%)
An additional score is given by the Beef Marble Score (BMS), which ranges from 1 to 12 (although meats graded from 1 to 3 are not even classified as Wagyu) and indicates the level of marbling, or the infiltration of intramuscular fat. To be qualified as A5, for example, in addition to all the other characteristics, the meat must have a BMS score of at least 8.
The BMS is divided as follows:
Poor (BMS 1)
Below Average (BMS 2)
Average (BMS 3 or 4)
Good (BMS 5 to 7)
Excellent (BMS 8 to 12)
For instance, if the parts "color and brightness of the meat", "firmness and texture of the meat", and "BMS" are rated with a score of 5, but the part "color, luster, and quality of the fat" is rated with a score of 4, the overall score will be 4. With Wagyu, there's no joking around.
This breakdown provides insight into the meticulous grading system used to classify Wagyu beef, emphasizing the importance of various factors that contribute to the overall quality of the meat. This system ensures that Wagyu beef is held to the highest standards, reflecting its esteemed status in the culinary world.
THE "NON-PREMIUM" WAGYU
After all these schemes, we have understood that this meat is classified in a range from C1 to A5, where A5 is the highest level of quality (and cost).
Meats classified as A4-A5 and B4-B5 are defined as Premium Wagyu meats, while those with a lower score are classified as non-premium Wagyu.
Since it's clearly not possible to disassemble the carcasses before selling them, the evaluation takes as a reference a precise point of the carcass, and the entire animal is then evaluated at its level. In Japan, this point is located between the sixth and seventh ribs, in Australia, where a different classification system is applied, between the tenth and eleventh ribs. It's clear, therefore, that the assignment of scores is not based on a scientific analysis but on the precision and experience of those evaluating the meat.
This summary captures the essence of how Wagyu beef is graded and classified, highlighting the distinction between premium and non-premium Wagyu based on meticulous evaluation processes that rely heavily on the expertise of the evaluators.
Those who perform this task are indeed considered true Wagyu gurus, highly knowledgeable experts who, simply by sight, can quickly determine the type of meat and its characteristics. It's somewhat akin to those in our country who evaluate Parmigiano, the famed "battitori," who without cutting into a wheel, but merely through smell, sound, and the use of a tiny screw needle, can decide whether it's fit for the market. While they may not be able to tell you the exact percentage of the various components present in the cheese, they likely come very close. Similarly, the world of Wagyu meat evaluators is one of tradition, culture, and history, comprised of men who have dedicated and continue to dedicate their lives to the study of this breed and methods to improve it.
To conclude, it's important to know that while there is a non-premium product class, the guarantee of high quality and selection on the quality of the product that Wagyu Company selects and proposes on this site remains steadfast.