THE DEFINITION OF WAGYU BEEF
Let's start by defining Wagyu. Wagyu is a compound word formed from two Japanese ideograms: "WA" (和), meaning Japan, and "GYU" (牛), meaning beef. Thus, its final meaning is "Japanese beef." This term is used to refer to certain breeds of Japanese beef cattle that, thanks to crossbreeding over the centuries and specific and very particular breeding methods, boast meat rich in intramuscular fat (the fat marbling in the meat gives rise to the so-called marbling) that is very aromatic, sweet, and, hard to believe, healthy. Wagyu, therefore, is nothing but a category of Japanese beef within which we can find many types of meat derived from animals raised in different areas of Japan, such as Kobe, Ozaki, Kyushu, Miyabi (further information on the Wagyu regions). The topic that often comes up first when we talk about Wagyu and its importation is: "So you import Kobe beef." It's not exactly like that: Kobe beef does not represent all Wagyu beef but is a subcategory, being Japanese Wagyu beef raised in Kobe. In other words, as is often said: All Kobe is Wagyu, but not all Wagyu is Kobe.
IF IT'S CALLED WAGYU... IT MUST BE JAPANESE!
Wagyu beef can be found in various areas of Japan specialized in the breeding of these cattle, practically in almost all regions. Each of these areas gives its name to the animals and the meat it produces. Among the most famous in Japan, we find Miyazaki Wagyu (Ozaki), Hida, Matsusaka, Kobe, Ōmi, and others. Kobe beef, although outside Japan many people think this word is synonymous with Wagyu, is beef from Tajima breed cows born and raised in the Hyogo prefecture that, adhering to very precise and restrictive rules, has received the Kobe brand.
Equally excellent in quality (if not superior for research and final quality) is Ozaki beef, from Kuroge cattle raised by Mr. Muhenaru Ozaki in Miyazaki Prefecture. This is the only Wagyu beef to take the name from the breeder and not the breeding area. The animals are raised with avant-garde techniques that make their meat tasty and sweet. Thanks to its marbling, moreover, it melts in the mouth without being oily or fatty.
Omi, on the other hand, is the oldest "brand" of Wagyu in Japan, identifying Kuroge cattle raised in the Omi area in Shiga Prefecture, washed by the waters of Lake Biwa. Well marbled, with tender and fragrant fat, it is a meat with a texture that requires slightly more chewing than others but is very juicy.
Matsusaka beef, considered by many to be one of the best in Japan, comes from virgin cows grown in the quiet area of Matsusaka, Mie Prefecture. It is known for its high fat content and marbling that could be called a work of art, it has a rich taste and literally melts in the mouth.
Hida-gyu, on the other hand, is the name that indicates Kuroge cattle raised in the Gifu Prefecture for at least 14 months. This meat after slaughtering is examined to receive an A or B level certification with meat quality from 3 to 5 by the Hida Beef Brand Promotion Conference. Carcasses rated lower than these are classified as "Hida Wagyu". It has excellent characteristics of luster, color, and compactness, and its marbling is visible even in shoulder, flank, and round cuts.
It can only be called Wagyu if the animal is born and raised in Japan, but there are farms that use the word Wagyu also abroad as in the bloodline of the farm there is a "predecessor" Japanese pure breed. In fact, we can find some farms in countries like Australia, the United States, China, or Italy, although they are still few.
However, as already mentioned, as much as these meats are still of quality, according to the Japanese Ministry of Agriculture, the true Wagyu meat is only that of animals raised in the land of the rising sun, and in this regard, it has devised a brand that can only be placed on Japanese Wagyu meat. This brand certifies that the meat in question comes from authentic beef born and raised in Japan with a certified pedigree.
NO TYPE OF MEAT CAN RECEIVE THE WAGYU BRAND IF RAISED OUTSIDE JAPAN.
KOBE WAGYU
THE DAISY, SYMBOL OF KOBE BEEF
Kobe beef always features a stamp called "Nojigiku," the symbolic flower of the Hyogo prefecture. All cattle raised in the Hyogo prefecture are inspected after being slaughtered and sold as Tajima cattle at the carcass market. Among these, those that surpass the evaluation criteria become “Kobe gyu” and receive the daisy stamp. PS: The daisy is stamped with edible ink, so there’s no problem; it can safely be eaten!
THE PROTECTED GENETIC LINE
The Tajima beef possesses very strong genes, perfect for producing the Wagyu meat the market desires: fine bones, marbling, taste, and texture. This animal is referred to as the "original beef," and today in Japan, there are very few purebred Tajima breeding bulls. Their DNA is thus a genetic heritage of invaluable worth used for crossbreeding with cows across Japan (Omi, Matsusaka, Yonezawa, Hida all have Tajima in their genealogy). The high level of quality of this meat is therefore still passed down today thanks to the work and passion of breeders who continue to try to protect the important heritage of the Tajima breed and Kobe beef to the fullest.
OZAKI WAGYU
THE OZAKI WAGYU
In Japan, every prefecture has its own Wagyu beef, somewhat like how every region in Italy has its own wine. The majority of Kuroge Wagyu cattle come from the Miyazaki prefecture, a very precious area where we find one of the best Wagyu in Japan, the Ozaki beef, meat from Kuroge cattle raised by Muhenaru Ozaki san on a farm an hour and three-quarters flight from Tokyo.
The Japanese Wagyu Association has awarded him recognition for the innovations and quality of his breeding, thus allowing Ozaki san the use of his own name to identify the Ozaki Wagyu. Today, in fact, Ozaki san is the only breeder in all of Japan who can name his own meat (normally, the name of the breeder does not appear, only the name of the area where the animals grow is shown), and Wagyu Company is the exclusive distributor for Italy of this phenomenal producer.
KYUSHU WAGYU
KYUSHU WAGYU
The Miyazaki and Kagoshima prefectures (within Kyushu) are responsible for producing over 80% of Japanese calves and play a central role in supplying other regions. The main reasons for this are the topography and climate. Kyushu has many mountainous areas compared to other regions, consists of many small villages, farmers do not own large estates, and have historical experience in livestock breeding.
The warm climate, natural mountain water (warm in winter, cool in summer), coexistence with humans as if they were family, and no separation between parent-child, are all characteristics that do not stress the animal and create an ideal environment for raising it. Additionally, this is an area with few plains and many mountains, allowing the animal to engage in very little movement or exercise, all fundamental elements for rich and tasty meat.
The traditional diet in this area is a mixed fertilizer with wheat, barley, and corn, and some farmers then add a small amount of grass.